Husqvarna backpack blower is Having some problems 125bt The blower wasnt. Husqvarna Leaf Blower Primer Bulb Replacement #505306701 This video.

The fuel system disintegrates from the ethanol in gasoline, so I ordered the necessary parts; fuel filter and fuel line, purge line (different size), and a primer bulb, if one is needed. If the primer bulb is tore, cracked, or makes a whistling sound, replace it first. Get a diagram online if your fuel lines are in pieces, but if they are intact, remove the fuel line from the back of the primer assembly, slowly pull the fuel filter and fuel line out through the fuel fill port.

Cut your new fuel line's end at a diagonal, so that you can insert it through the hole in the gas tank. Slowly push enough through until you can grab it from the fuel fill port.

Cut off this diagonal piece so that the end is once again square, and install your new fuel filter. Pull the fuel line back enough so the fuel filter is at an appropriate pickup point, I.e., close to the bottom of the tank while running. Cut the fuel line so that it just connects with the primer assembly. Remove the purge line from the primer assembly and use it to cut a new purge line slightly longer, with a diagonal cut on one end. Feed the diagonal end through the tank wall, and connect the other end to the primer assembly. I was able to do my 2 machines from one fuel line and purge line kit.

I have a 125b that is has been great for years. I run it weekly and now I can't get it to fire. First, I checked compression and I have 110 lbs. I checked spark and I definitely have spark so I got a carb kit, rebuilt it, replaced fuel lines, checked to make sure filter was clear, replaced the spark plug and put fresh fuel in. Wouldn't begin to start. The plug was wet with fuel, so I went back to check spark again.

Definitely getting spark. Put a spark tester on it and it jumps 1/4'.Pulled the flywheel. It didn't appear to be spun and appears to be OK but I'm not familiar with a flywheel that has a key built into it like that.

Very hard for me to tell if there's a problem with it or not.Is there some other way to check the timing or something on this or check the coil some other way? Really baffled and not sure what to do at this point.Any help would be appreciated. You say the flywheel doesn't 'appear to be spung'. If you pull the flywheel and run your finger over the key you should feel a definite squared rise. Also look at the shaft. There is a slot the key on the flywheel goes into.

Neither should be rounded. Put the flywheel back on with the magnet side away from the coil. See if you can turn the shaft with your hand while holding the flywheel in place.

If it slips then the key is not holding it in place. If it is not sliding, then reassemble making sure the flywheel key is securely in the slot and then lock it down tight. I damaged my key when I didn't lock it down and it spun on me shearing the key.Make sure the clip or connector on the spark plug wire is not broken or missing and that is snaps down tightly on the plug.Another thing you can check is to make sure the muffler is clear.

If it's clogged up then it's not letting the pressure off.Have you or can you adjust the jets? What carb is on this? Try cranking it with the choke open and the throttle wide open and holding it open.

If it fires then possible you are getting to much fuel to air mix and it's flooding. Remember it's not the fuel that burns but the vaporized fuel/air that burns. My first thought was that It may be getting too much fuel. When you rebuilt it (fuel needle and metering lever side) did you Make sure the gasket goes on the carb body first, then the diaphragm with the little spoke in it. The spoke faces DOWN.

With that metering diaphragm and gasket REMOVED on that side of the carb, attatch a piece of fuel line to the fuel inlet pipe and blow into it. You should hear NO air escaping thru the needle. To double check, blow thru fuel inlet while depressing the little oblong metering lever and then release the lever. You should get a HISS of air with it depressed, but not once you let it go. Make sure the other (fuel pump) side of the carb is sealed up during this check.

If those 2 items were installed in the wrong order, then the diaphragm will hold the metering lever down and the fuel inlet needle valve will stay open. I think it may be getting too much fuel.

Also, your Low and High speed mixture screws may need to be adjusted esp. If you have messed with them or taken them out to clean the carb.They MAY need to be removed completely and the low speed fuel circuit and high speed circuit cleaned. Use NO high psi compressed air as you can damage sensitive check valves. For the mixture screws, (If you can access them) From a lightly seated position (turned in), they both should be backed out about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 turns.

Check this stuff and report back. I feel it is a timing or fuel issue.CHECKING THE COIL The legs on the coil module should be about.010.012' away from the flywheel magnets. This is about the thickness of a standard business card. Use one for a gauge as steel feeler gauges do not work so well. I see this is a 28cc full crank engine with an external primer bulb; with lower crankcase fuel induction. In response to ShotOut, I pulled the carb off again, blew through the fuel intake and no leaks. Pressed the needle valve lifter and I could hear it coming through the needle valve opening.

Triple checked the order of the gaskets as I put them back on to make sure I had them correct. When I rebuilt the carb, I didn't touch the mixture screws.I reset the coil to.011.

Cleaned the plug, filled up the fuel and nothing.There's a dealer here in the area that will charge me $25 to diagnose. I'll let you know what they say.Thanks for your help. Hi Meathead, Since this machine has the lower crankcase fuel induction, check and be sure that the 'Pulse Hole' from the engine block thru small intake manifold (spacer) is clear. You may also have a 'reed Valve' induction plate behind the carburetor manifold or spacer. Check it's condition as well.

Many have screws holding them in place, some may not. Since you have GOOD compression, Good clean carb, GOOD air filter, and GOOD spark. About all that is left is Timing (Flywheel key-way inspection as Doug said) and lack of fuel entering the lower crankcase. If there is an air leak in the lower crankcase the vacuum needed to draw the fuel will be lost. The pulse hole is KEY here.as is the condition of the reed valve(s). Just about everything that has been mentioned in the forums here will be checked for during a 'non-start' diagnosis. OK, just got back from the shop.

I handed it over and they wanted to know what I've done to this point. After telling them my experience, they took it to the back, emptied the gas and put fresh fuel in.

The guy pulled on it until he was sweating like a horse and no fire. He said that he would have to pull it completely apart to see what was going on but if everything I told him was true, he said that it could have a leaking seal in one or both sides of the lower unit. If the lower unit is leaking, he said the thing will never fire.He said the only way to diagnose that is to strip it down to the short block and do a leak-down test. He said they pressurize it to 6 psi and it has to hold for 20 seconds.Does this sound viable?

How exactly do I do this?I brought it back home because this is something I want to try myself. I'm on a mission here. Either I'm going to get this running or I'm going give it the hee-ho across the fence into the neighbors yard. Meathead In my previous post I stated 'If there is an air leak in the lower crankcase, the vacuum needed to draw the fuel will be lost.' But to digress, your original post stated that the plug was wet with fuel.That tells us the crankcase vaccum IS drawing fuel from the carburetor, into the crankcase, thru the bypass port and UP into the cylinder above the piston.

Fuel coming from the bottom of an engine like yours has to move thru a port (or channel if you will) in the cylinder wall. A bad air leak in the crankcase would prohibit that from occuring. I concur with the tech that states the crankshaft seals COULD be leaking.that is the case with any 2 stroke that won't start. They COULD be leaking. You stated it has run great for years.

How OLD is this machine? Some machines reach old age and the seals STILL don't leak. I do not think there would be ANY fuel induction UP into the cylinder if leaking crankcase bearing seals were the culprit. Vacuum would be lost and the fuel would just collect in the bottom of the crankcase or carburetor throat.So, yes, you can do a leak down test yourself or just a leak test.

You can do an easy one or a more complicated one. The complicated one uses 2 gauges, one to measure psi going into the engine, and one to read the air pressure that is being held INSIDE the engine.You do NOT have to necessarily STRIP the machine to do this if you can easily access the spark plug hole, the fuel intake manifold, and the exhaust port.Low pressure air (say @ 5 to 6psi) is pumped into the machine thru spark plug hole with the INTAKE and EXHAUST inlets and outlets sealed off. Then the static pressure remaining in the machine is measured.

It makes it to the lower crankcase area (where the seals are) thru the piston ring gaps. All you really need is a cheap little air compressor, a coarse pipe fittting to thread into the spark plug hole. Some type of tubing or air line from the compressor to fitting in the head and possibly some rubber and braces to seal off the Intake and exhaust inlet and outlet. People have used pieces of tire inner tubes to do this You can get by with one gauge really doing a basic leak test.

The shop strips it down so they can SEE or HEAR the leak better, by spraying liquid around where the crankshaft EXITS the engine housing. Your machine probably has the pull start in the back or top and right behind your starter is the back end of the crank. With the starter removed, you may be able to see where it enters the block. The front of the machine may be more difficult to access with covers etc. Without checking, I am not sure the assembly there.Anyway, the deal is to completely SEAL off the engine and pump air into it at low pressure and check to see if it escapes or stays inside the motor by seeing the leak or hearing it.

That is it in a nutshell.I still do not feel that crankcase seals leaking is the problem. OK, started pulling it apart and first thing I noticed when I got down to the seals, the seal under the flywheel was spotless. The seal on the other side was a mess. Caked up dirt and grease.Before dissasembling any further, I tried to to a pressure test but was not successful between the pump, plugging all of the outlets and getting air into it so I kept going. Pulled the bottom off and the one seal is definitely damaged. One side looks like it got flattened somehow.Next I pulled out the crank and the piston.

The piston is pretty discolored.Don't know if that's a big deal or not. I didn't see any major scoring on the piston or the cylinder wall.So here are my questions:1. Should I try to clean up the skirt of the piston and if so, how?2.

The piston ring is either stuck in the groove or it's designed that way. It is not free floating in the groove like I was expecting to see. How is it supposed to be?3. If it is supposed to be free, what's the next step to free it?Hope I'm on the right track.

Strip it down to where you can pull the flywheel off. When you look at the flywheel on the side that faces the engine block.

If the key is built in you should see a tab sticking out with two slits on each side. If the key is not built in you see about and eighth inch cut into the flywheel probably about an eighth inch deep. It you see two slits but there is no tab sticking out then it's been sheared. If you are not sure, put the flywheel back on with the fins facing outward, hold the shaft with your hand and turn the flywheel on the shaft while pressing down.

You should feel it drop down and not turn any more. Hold the flywheel firmly with your hand and try to turn the shaft. If you can't then the flywheel is secured on the shaft. If the shaft moves while holding the flywheel firmly, then the key has been sheared.You migh ask, why am I getting a spark if the key is sheared or the flywheel is spung. Depending on how the flywheel is locked in place, you could be tightening it where it turns with the shaft but not in the right place and still get a spark but the timing is off. Meathead Clean up the skirt of the piston with strong solvent. The piston ring should turn in the groove and be free floating, not stuck.

Use sovent or soak it altogether. Carbon is tough stuff. Rings are brittle. If you try to pry them loose, you greatly risk breaking them, so don't! Soak the whole works.

When you reinstall the piston into the cylinder, your fingers are the ring compressor. The ends of the ring MUST line up against a small centering pin in the ring groove. You will not be able to see the pin until the groove is cleaned of carbon. The ring is NOT allowed to rotate while the engine is running, thus the need for the pin to hold it in place.

You may have suffered an intermittent vacuum leak with the damaged seal. It should be replaced. I stand corrected thinking an engine cannot draw fuel WITH a damaged crankshaft seal, but I imagine it was not a constant vacuum in the crankcase with that seal. Clean it up good. Order a new seal. You'll be good to go after that. You can use the pad, just dont scrub so hard that you scratch the sides of the piston a lot.

After removing the carbon, you can repolish the piston walls using fine grade wet/dry paper. You are going to need to have patience with that ring. I have soaked carboned parts in used motor oil.

The carbon will absorb the oil, softening it and allowing it to be removed. Gasoline soaking is an option too, although we know it evaporates. Has any of the carbon dissolved yet? Typically an item such as the end of a broke piston ring is used to clean the groove in the piston. If you remove it to clean, be careful as it is easily broken. Find the end gap on the ring, and using something small like a pick, pick there to give the solvent a place to get into the groove and UNDER the ring.

Keep picking at the ring groove to get solvent flowing in there. I can't see how you can get 110 psi if the ring(s) are seated in the landing. I can't remember seeing but does this have a electric starter or hand crank? How many times did you crank to get a reading.

Getting the ring unseated out of the landing takes time. You can get a glass or container that the whole head will sit in and use SeaFoam (not the aerosol) and let is sit.

Take it out and us the thinest feeler gauge you have and try and work it between the top and bottom of the ring and the landing. Be careful not to break or scratch the ring.

You might be able to loosen it.Are you using regular gasoline? Ethanol destroys these engines. Bulb What if the ring is stuck in its' perfect running location?

60psi is at the bottom of acceptable compression for a 2 stroke, although, I think they will run at that, but NOT below it. Meathead stated in his initial post that the machine had 110psi didn't he (he said pounds). That would be PLENTY of compression. So, How is soaking the stubborn carboned up ring and piston coming along?

Any progress Mr. Sorry, but I had to get in here and clear this up. One of my hobbies is collecting/restoring chainsaws and your statement here is erroneous. The numbers you prescribe apply to a reed valve induction 2 stroke.

This engine is piston ported, which is much fussier for blowby. 110PSI on this engine is probably minimal, it may run if you could get it to turn fast enough.

You could spin it with a drill, which would spin it faster than the recoil, and it may start. Also, every compression tester is different, I have a Lisle and a Craftsman that never agree on the compression of an engine! In any case if the ring is stuck on a small 'port blocked' engine it will never run right, if at all! Chances are you are having trouble getting the ring to unstick, it's because some of the aluminum has 'moved' and is trapping the ring.

A new ring is about $3.50 plus shipping, just get a new one and use a peice of the old ring as a 'fit tester' to carefully wet-sand the edges of the ring groove until it fits correctly. On these single ring engines, you have no margin for error on ring fitment and compression loss.Good luck.

I stand corrected about the fuel intake system (no reed valve) as I misread the small drawings on this site and mistakenly thought the carburetor BOOT and carburetor PLATE were integrated with a reed valve induction plate. I have seen engines with reed valves that were piston ported. Poulan has a 32cc that is. I do not think the fuel induction system even enters into the equation as the intake port in a piston ported engine terminates in about the same place a conventional intake on an engine utilizing a side draft carb is located/.Yes, the engine is piston ported as it has the crankcase fuel induction ports in the cylinder. You, yourself just stated, that 'It may start'.

Of course it will never run right with a stuck ring! But when testing, it just MAY produce compression.

That is what shut it down in the first place most likely. What aluminum moved? From where to where? Carbon is holding the darn ring. If any aluminum moved, it was very little.

He said he sees no scoring. Where is the aluminum that moved hiding.in the ring groove? Inside the carbon under the ring?I find on these single ring engines that the Ring end gap is really too wide with stock rings.

There is a formula for computing WHAT it should be for optimum effect.it is not complicated, but tighter is better and means more compression. An engine this size should have a ring end gap of about.002'.

Check a normal small engine 2 stroke and you will find the gap is most likely 5 to 6 times that. I say let the OP do as he will, at least he WILL have learned something about his equipment. Try to push the piston back into the cylinder with the ring on. If the ring sticks out too far for the piston to go into the cylinder, it ISN'T STUCK. Try compressing the ring with your fingers.

I disagree about not getting any fire with a stuck piston ring. I have a FL1500 blower that had a stuck ring(from carbon deposits). 25 psi of compression. With starting fluid, the engine would pop and sputter even though the ring was stuck. In one of Meathead's earlier posts, he stated that the spark plug was wet with fuel.

In that case there could be nothing wrong with the fuel supply. However, ShotOut said that it could be getting too much fuel. If that was happening, you could take the gas out and see if it worked with start fluid.At this point I feel that it is no common problem, and even if you get rid of it you will have tried all the normal methods of getting it to run. If you get rid of it, give it to the local small engine dealer near you and see if they can fix it and sell it.

QUOTE=ShotOut;84130I have seen engines with reed valves that were piston ported. Poulan has a 32cc that is. I do not think the fuel induction system even enters into the equation as the intake port in a piston ported engine terminates in about the same place a conventional intake on an engine utilizing a side draft carb is located/.Yes, the engine is piston ported as it has the crankcase fuel induction ports in the cylinder.

You, yourself just stated, that 'It may start'. Of course it will never run right with a stuck ring! But when testing, it just MAY produce compression. That is what shut it down in the first place most likely. 'At the risk of sounding antagonistic the induction method not only makes a difference, it is the key! Russell hobbs banana bread recipe.

What is a reed valve? Nothing more than a check valve right? What does a check valve do? It allows flow in only one direction. Perfect for the intake of a 2 stroke engine, as the last thing you want is air moving out of the crankcase through the carburetor! In this case, as the piston moves upward and the compression/intake stroke are initiated, the reeds allow intake flow as soon as atmospheric pressure exceeds the pressure in the crankcase.

The intake cycle will continue until either TDC or the point where blow-by equalizes the pressure inside and outside the crankcase. If the compression loss causes an increase in crankcase pressure above atmospheric pressure, that differential is stored in the crankcase and only adds to the intake charge pressure within the case due to the one way nature of the reeds. You diminish the intake charge cycle time and effectively lean the mix with blow-by, but in a very constant way that simply limits your intake duration, not ideal but can be compensated for by simple carb adjustments.Conversely with a 'port blocked' or 'piston ported' engine, IE and engine with no reed valves, the skirt of the piston blocks the port leading from the carb to the crankcase. As the intake/compression cycle is initiated, the crankcase pressure drops below atmospheric pressure as compression builds. Not until the skirt clears the intake port will the crankcase pressure equalize with atmospheric and draw in an intake charge. By this time some compression has already been built.

The vacuum in the case and the compression in the cylinder accelerate blow-by and diminish the pressure differential when the port is opened, decreasing intake charge velocity and volume. After the port opens and the pressure equalizes, if the blow-by causes the crankcase pressure to elevate above atmospheric pressure, this will cause the crankcase to begin to 'breathe' out of the carburetor as there is nothing to stop the flow. And any excessive case pressure before the port is covered by the skirt after detonation will flow out of the carb which if nothing else will create a backwards flow that must be counteracted before the next intake charge can enter.

This also pollutes case for the next intake charge.The summary is that non-reed engines are significantly more dependent on minimal compression loss.OTOH I completely agree with you that ring end-gap on most single-ring engines is significantly beyond optimal.And as for the OP, I'm all for him fixing this himself! In fact, I have very little faith in most small engine shops and strongly encourage people to learn to repair their small equipment themselves.

I have at least a half dozen chainsaws that were 'junk' according to reputable shops. The honest truth is that there isn't enough profit in small engine repair to warrant much troubleshooting. Especially on a piece of equipment that costs less than $200 new in most cases. And I also want the OP to learn something from this project, I'd just prefer that what he learns is accurate.

QUOTE=ShotOut;84166So,The summary is that non-reed engines are significantly more dependent on minimal compression loss OK, I'll buy that.' As far as the broken ring goes, maybe a Ketone of some sort (Acetone or MEK) would work to dissolve what gasoline would not? I like the idea of used motor oil as you stated earlier, the acidic combustion byproducts might work as a solvent as well as the residual detergents. I'm curious to see if he's made any headway on loosening the ring.FWIW for some reason all of the sudden my username switched from 1240401 to BSmitty, not sure why that is, I had chosen my name before my previous post. First of all, referring to me as 'Mr.

Meathead' makes me laugh! I just feel like a meathead when dealing with this. I know just enough about mechanical stuff to be dangerous and break things to the point of no return.I could have scrapped this thing a long time ago and that probably would have been a smarter thing to do but I really want to figure out what's going on with this. I've never been so stumped with a small motor like this. It's just usually not this complicated even for me.Anyway, soaking it in ATF seemed to do the trick. I was able to get the ring off but I got a little excited and ended up breaking it anyway.

But that's OK because I had already ordered a new one after reading your suggestion. I could have gone and bought it from a local store but I've been buying through ereplacement because this forum and you guys have been so helpful.

Glad to give ereplacement the business for what it's worth. Plus this has been a huge education for me!So at this point, I'm just waiting for delivery. I'll keep you posted. As far as the broken ring goes, maybe a Ketone of some sort (Acetone or MEK) would work to dissolve what gasoline would not? I like the idea of used motor oil as you stated earlier, the acidic combustion byproducts might work as a solvent as well as the residual detergents. I'm curious to see if he's made any headway on loosening the ring.FWIW for some reason all of the sudden my username switched from 1240401 to BSmitty, not sure why that is, I had chosen my name before my previous post.'

The '1240401' username was created because that is what member number you are. Cool, glad you got the ring out of the groove. Since it's already broken, I would work your way around the ring groove and make sure you can get a fragment of the ring to fit fully into the groove. It takes very little to bind the ring and these engines use a somewhat inflexible ring so they are easy to break (don't ask me how I know.). I'm sure a new, free ring will solve your problems.Good to know about the member number, it's just a little strange to me that my older post kept my older name. In any case, we're good to go now!His experience reminds me of a single ring Poulan 2050 saw I had.

Refused to restart after fueling one day, after pulling on it till I was utterly frustrated I took a compression reading and read 95 psi. I took the recoil off and spun the motor with a drill and eventually got it to run for a couple minutes.

It died again and I took another reading, and pulled 75 psi. Turns out my air filter was breached and I got a case full of wood chips! As I tried to run it the chips were working their way out of the case but the abrasion destroyed the ring (although it looked good). $5 for a new ring and I was back in business. Interestingly I only had 135 psi with the new ring running strong.

Meathead I, personally am glad you are enjoying your time and the banter on here; as I am too. What is also great is that you have learned. None of us are or will ever be too old to do that! Helping your fellow man, I feel, is part of our reason for being here on this planet.

I remember 'Meathead' from the TV Series All In The Family I think it was called. Edith, Archie and that blonde!Glad for the update. If you replace the ring and the crank seal, you should be good to go. Sounds like you're well on your way. Bulb, I was told that the 'second ring' on a small 2 stroke engine such as yours acts as a stabilizer to keep the piston skirt aligned in the cylinder.

Evidently, somewhere along the way, engine designers noticed that the lower part of the piston was gyrating in the cylinder, wearing down the edges on the skirt and wearing the cylinder as well. Of course, this gyration was to a very small degree, but enough to warrant stabilization of the lower piston.helping to alleviate unwarranted wear and tear. MEATHEAD You did very well. Great to hear a happy ending!

Now you can work on ALL your friends' stuff too right!! LOLI was more than happy to TRY and help you and encourage you. Believe it or not, in some other forums, giving encouragement to a poster with a mechanical problem IS NOT considered to be any help.and the jackass that feels that way is a guy from Oregon named Bill Kaupan.I don't LIKE jackasses and I dont care for him.you gotta know you did very well.and we are all glad.NOW you can go help the other guy on here with a Husqvarna backpack blower doing the SAME thing.he posted a few days back.

Meathead: Thank you too! I feel I have received just about the highest compliment one can when helping someone.that is what makes it all worthwhile; esp. Ahhh, the great oil debate. Depending upon who or whom you speak to, you will receive different answers. The practice of staying away from the cheap oil is good advice, no doubt about that. That being said, the cheapest oil you should use is a 'synthetic blend' as it has the best of all the 2 stroke worlds in it.

Many of them actually have fuel stabilizers in them also. The full synthetic oil is a good choice too.

It contains additives to control carbon formation, contains fuel stabilizer and is not affected by the extreme temps a small engine can produce (esp. In HOT weather).

So in summary; I suggest using at the very least a name brand oil that says 'synthetic blend' or a full synthetic. As in 4 stroke oil, Full synthetic can contribute greatly to reducing any additional WEAR on the moving parts of the engine.bearings, rings, piston etc.

Very nicely done, congratulations! I'll agree with ShotOut on the oil debate.

For the cost, it could probably be debated either way for synthetic but IMO quality is worth a few dollars. I hope my posts didn't get anyone too excited either, I can be a bit of a small engine nerd! I agree with ShotOut also that you did very well!

Most people would have given up, but in the end you prevailed over a small cube 2 stroke. And IMO if you can make a. Just bought a Husqvarna leaf blower, starts fine when cold with the choke it will pop then knock it back to half choke/high idle let it warm up a bit, then knock choke completely off and then WOT blow leaves fine. So the thing is still warm so I yank the cord it starts go to WOT and won't spool up runs for a minute bogs and dies. Went to tweak the carb no screws. Just 2 little knobs that have a kind of a knerl on them. Is there a special screw driver for these ajustments?

Carb is made by ZamaThanks. If your model is the BT 150, I have had the same problem on two of the machines. The first one after 16 months, the second one after 6 weeks. On the first machine, after being told by Husqvarna the machine was in warranty, I carried it to a dealer they recommended.

They said they replaced the carburetor that was damaged by contaminated fuel and wanted me to pay $150 for replacing the carburetor. I refused to pay and purchased a new blower. Now, after 6 weeks I'm having the same problem with the new machine. The fuel is not the problem as I'm using the same fuel in 4 other machines with no problems. Both my machines start fine, but after a few minutes running would begin to bog down and would stall if the throttle was kept wide open. Any help with my problem would be appreciated. I have contacted Husqvarna with no success, seems the warranty only covers what is working correctly.

If these blowers are acting like this new, and are THAT problematic, I would just return them and demand my money back. Go get an Echo. I think their Customer Service is much better than the clowns you are dealing with now. Plus, they have a 5 Year Non=Commercial Warranty on their equipment, and they honor it. I am sick and tired of these righteous companies always blaming the end user for their poor selection of carburetors and the like. The EPA has made the carbs that we get here to use on new equipment so LEAN, they will hardly run.

That is why I like all my OLDER equipment. The EPA stinks.And yes, there is a little tool you can get on ebay to turn those mixture screws on the ZAMA carburetors. Stihl bought ZAMA out a few years back because they kept getting carbs from them that were screwing up, so they figured out a way to deal with it. Those little carbs have 4 types of heads:1. SPLINED.very common 2. Double- D The splined head is very common as is the Pac Man head.

(round with V-Cut notch). I agree with you completely.

In the USA we have the 10% corn fuel, don't the manufacturers know this, can't they build a carb that will run with this or is this an excuse they use for there ineptness? I love the Husqvarna product when it works.

The limited warranty is just that, it only covers the area that is not causing a problem. Lowe's has done well by me in taking care of problems that should be covered by Husqvarna. I'm on my third BT 150 Blower in less than two years (I am not a landscaper, a homeowner), two of them world start and run fine for a while then begin to bog down. I learned from the first one how worthless the Husqvarna warranty is. If I have a problem with the current, third one it will be my last Husqvarna product.